Duck

My first time with a whole duck

Dear Reader, 

I find myself in Brisbane for personal business. I cooked a whole duck while here. I’ve never done a whole duck before—bits of a duck, yes; a whole one, no. 

The duck had sat in a freezer for months. A home freezer means some temperature fluctuations, and being poultry, I’m thinking salmonellosis and campylobacteriosis. 

To overcome this concern, I’m using a meat thermometer to ensure I reach an internal temperature of 76 °C in the thigh. 

The duck took two days to defrost. After defrosting, I dried the skin with a paper towel. I then hung it by its neck over the kitchen sink for a while to get as much blood out as possible. Unfortunately, a new white shirt is now a wearing-at-home shirt. 

Recipe 

Equipment 

  • Meat thermometer 

Ingredients 

  • Duck 
  • Salt 
  • Ginger marmalade 
  • French onion soup mix (low sodium) 
  • Cabbage 
  • Broccoli 

Instructions 

  1. Defrost the duck and make sure it’s properly defrosted. Cooking partly frozen poultry is a point of failure regarding the risk of food-borne infection. 
  2. Dry the skin and hang it to let the blood and juices drain away. 
  3. Salt the skin so you are dry brining the duck. Do this the night before you plan to cook it. 
  4. Refrigerate the uncovered duck. 
  5. Turn the oven on and set it to 190 °C (fan-forced). 
  6. Place the meat thermometer into the thigh and put the duck on the middle rack. 
  7. Cook the bird until the internal temperature has reached 76 °C. 
  8. Rest the bird for at least 20 minutes before carving it. 
  9. While the duck was in the oven, make the marmalade and French onion soup sauce. 
  10. Boil a litre of water in a saucepan and add the soup mix. 
  11. Add a couple of tablespoons of ginger marmalade to the soup and gently boil until it reduces and thickens to a loose syrup. 
  12. Cut the cabbage and broccoli into small pieces and parboil for a few minutes. 
  13. Sauté the cabbage and broccoli in a frying pan. Help the process with some wine and maybe a teaspoon of marmalade. Cook these vegetables to the desired firmness or tenderness. I like my cabbage and broccoli firm in my mouth, but others like them mushy. I was cooking for some people with poor dentition, so we went with a softer version. 
  14. Carve the duck with a sharp knife and plate up. Drizzle some of the sauce over the duck and the cabbage. 
  15. Give thanks to the Lord. 
  16. Eat with a knife and fork. 

Thoughts on the meal 

I like eating duck. I like the fatty, oily, and gamey tastes and feel in my mouth. I also like eating the odd bits. I enjoy the uropygium and pygostyle of poultry. The uropygium is the fleshy protuberance, visible at the posterior end. It looks swollen because it contains the uropygial gland that produces preen oil. I also like eating the neck and dissecting out the œsophagus and trachea. Because of the limitations of available tools and photographic equipment, I couldn’t undertake the dissection on my plate like I have done previously.

The skin was crisp, and the meat was succulent. The marmalade and French onion soup reduction sauce accompanied the duck well. My dinner compatriots were pleased and I received 👍👍

Photographs

Chicken and speck congee with some duck

Hello Reader,

Welcome to Canberra, where this morning, when I alighted from bed at 4 am, it was –5.9 °C with an apparent temperature of –8.6 °C.

The best food for such a cold morning is my favourite food. Congee transports me back to my childhood, except at home, we called it jook.

As I was showering yesterday, I decided on jook for tea tonight. Coincidentally, Lorraine’s Friday blog post also mentioned congee, so the deal was sealed in my head. 

In the title of this post, you’ll see I’ve mentioned duck. Last weekend I cooked two duck breasts, and I still had a portion to use. There’s no way I would waste duck breast, especially since I kept the skin and fat. 😊

Chicken and speck congee with a hint of duck

Recipe

Photo Gallery

Equipment

  • Pressure cooker

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Wash the rice in tap water until the starch has been removed. Did you know that the consistency and appearance of the stools associated with cholera diarrhoea is described as rice water? (Alexakis 2017) When you look at the water as you finish washing rice, think of the ongoing cholera pandemic (seventh), which started in Indonesia in 1961 and continues today. Check out the reference for photographs of the rice water stool.
  2. Add some cold stock to the rice in a pressure cooker vessel.
  3. Slice the shallots and chillies and toss them in along with a few dried shiitake mushrooms.
  4. Mix through the duck breast pieces and lay the chicken thighs and speck on top.
  5. Splash some sesame oil over the skin of the chicken.
  6. Seal the lid of the pressure cooker and cook for 45 minutes.
  7. When the pressure inside the cooking vessels equals the pressure outside, remove the lid and carefully scoop out the chicken pieces and speck. The meat may tear off during the lifting from the pressure cooker so be careful.
  8. Place the chicken in a large bowl and the speck on a cutting board.
  9. Pull the chicken meat and skin with two forks and sucks the bones of the juices and remaining tit bits of flesh. 
  10. Roughly cut up the speck with a knife.
  11. Put the meat back into the cooking vessel and with a spoon stir the meat through the rice gruel.
  12. Slice some spring onion for garnishing.
  13. Transfer some jook to a bowl, add a splash of soy sauce, and garnish with the spring onion.
  14. I also prepared some crispy kale sprouts with my meal. Mum would often have shredded ham and iceberg lettuce too.
  15. Give thanks to the Lord.
  16. Eat with a spoon and feel good knowing this rice gruel will pass through your œsophagus into your stomach and feel like it will warm you from the inside.

Thoughts on the meal

I remain impressed with my electrically powered pressure cooker. It is more convenient than a traditional stovetop version. Last night, I had a chicken though, a small portion of pumpkin, some vegetable stock, and some chillies. Within an hour I had a delicious chicken soup.

I feel full. I think tomorrow when I weigh myself, I might be a kilogram heavier than I weighed this morning. 

Photograph Gallery

Here are some photographs of my dinner.

Final thoughts

I hope you enjoyed reading this recipe and let me know if you try it.

References

Alexakis, L. C. (2017). “Cholera -“Rice water stools.” Pan Afr Med J 26: 147.

Chen, X., et al. (2021). “Duck breast muscle proteins, free fatty acids and volatile compounds as affected by curing methods.” Food Chem 338: 128138.

            The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of different curing methods on protein structure, protein and lipid oxidation, lipolysis and volatile compounds in duck breast meat. The results showed that compared to static brining and pulsed pressure salting, the vacuum tumbling curing significantly decreased the oxidation of proteins and lipids, and the surface hydrophobicity of proteins, increased α-helix structure but decreased the proportion of β-sheet, and increased actomyosin dissociation, liplysis and the free fatty acid content in meat. Meanwhile, vacuum tumbling curing decreased the amount of volatile flavor compounds, hexanal, 2,3-octanone, and off-flavor compounds 1-octen-3-ol and 1-hexanol. This study suggests that concerns on healthiness and the sensory quality of processed meat products should be paid in the selection of curing methods and vacuum tumbling curing is superior in terms of both aspects.

Obayashi, Y. and Y. Nagamura (2016). “Does monosodium glutamate really cause headache? A systematic review of human studies.” J Headache Pain 17: 54.

            Although monosodium glutamate (MSG) is classified as a causative substance of headache in the International Classification of Headache Disorders 3rd edition (ICHD-III beta), there is no literature in which causal relationship between MSG and headache was comprehensively reviewed. We performed systematic review of human studies which include the incidence of headache after an oral administration of MSG. An analysis was made by separating the human studies with MSG administration with or without food, because of the significant difference of kinetics of glutamate between those conditions (Am J Clin Nutr 37:194-200, 1983; J Nutr 130:1002S-1004S, 2000) and there are some papers which report the difference of the manifestation of symptoms after MSG ingestion with or without food (Food Chem Toxicol 31:1019-1035, 1993; J Nutr 125:2891S-2906S, 1995). Of five papers including six studies with food, none showed a significant difference in the incidence of headache except for the female group in one study. Of five papers including seven studies without food, four studies showed a significant difference. Many of the studies involved administration of MSG in solution at high concentrations (>2 %). Since the distinctive MSG is readily identified at such concentrations, these studies were thought not to be properly blinded. Because of the absence of proper blinding, and the inconsistency of the findings, we conclude that further studies are required to evaluate whether or not a causal relationship exists between MSG ingestion and headache.

Vici, G., et al. (2021). “Nutritional Properties of Rice Varieties Commonly Consumed in Italy and Applicability in Gluten Free Diet.” Foods 10(6).

            Gluten-free diets are often characterized by an inadequate intake of nutrients and are generally monotonous for the limited number of products celiac patients can use. As rice is the most used cereal by celiac consumers, studying rice varieties nutritional characteristics is of interest to manage diet quality and variety. Proteins, total carbohydrates and amylose content of six rice varieties (Ribe, Vialone Nano, Carnaroli, Arborio, Basmati, and Fragrance) were analyzed. Analyses were performed in raw products and after boiling, stewing, and microwaving. A decrease of proteins and total carbohydrates amount was observed in cooked rice. The same was reported for amylose content with boiling showing the highest loss (average retained amylose 53%). Considering amylose percentage with respect to total carbohydrates, each variety showed either an increase or a decrease depending on cooking method. The highest values were obtained with stewing above all for Basmati rice and Arborio rice. However, exceptions can be underlined as Carnaroli rice, showing the highest percentage when boiled. In this context, nutritional characteristics of cooked rice varieties appear to be of great importance to increase specific nutritional knowledge to better manage gluten-free diets.

Zhang, X., et al. (2022). “Effects of different breeds/strains on fatty acid composition and lipid metabolism-related genes expression in breast muscle of ducks.” Poult Sci 101(5): 101813.

            Fatty acid composition contributes greatly to the nutritional value of meat, and breeds/strains are important factors affecting the composition of fatty acid. Recently, few studies have focused on the fatty acid composition in breast muscle of different duck breeds. Therefore, the objective of the present study was to compare the fatty acid composition and lipid metabolism-related genes expression in breast muscle of Jianchang duck (J), Cherry Verry duck (CV) and 3 crossbred strains (BH1, BH2 and MCmale symbol x (BGF2male symbol x GF2female symbol)female symbol (MBG)). Our results showed that the breast muscle of J had the highest contents of C22:1(n-9) but the lowest ratios of -omega 6 (n-6)/-omega 3 (n-3), -mono-unsaturated fatty acid (MUFA)/-saturated fatty acid (SFA) and -polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA)/SFA. The PUFA/SFA ratio was higher in breast muscle of MBG than in that of BH2 and CV, and the contents of C22:1(n-9), MUFA and PUFA were higher in BH1 than in BH2 and CV. Furthermore, the mRNA levels of SCD1, FADS2, ELOVL2, and ELOVL5 were significantly higher in MBG (P < 0.05), while those of FASD1 and ACACA were significantly higher in BH1 than in BH2 and CV (P < 0.05). Principal component analysis showed that fatty acids variation exhibited extensive positive loading on principal components (PCs). Correlation analysis showed that PC1 and PC3 of BH1, as well as PC1 of MBG were correlated with the mRNA levels of ACACA and FABP3, respectively. Thus, it could be concluded that the breast muscles of MBG and BH1 have better fatty acid composition, which was closely related to the increased expression levels of SCD1, FADS2, ELOVL2, and ELOVL5 genes in MBG but FADS1 and ACACA in BH1. Moreover, these results also showed that crossbreeding could optimize the composition of fatty acid in breast muscle of ducks.

Sous vide duck breast with mashed celeriac and quinoa

Saturday dinner. Sous vide duck breast with quinoa celeriac mash flavoured with Vegemite and chilli flakes. I cooked the duck for 2 hours at 57 °C/135 °F. #sousvide #duckbreast #celeriacmash #quinoa
Saturday dinner. Sous vide duck breast with quinoa celeriac mash flavoured with Vegemite and chilli flakes. I cooked the duck for 2 hours at 57 °C/135 °F.

Sous vide duck breast with mashed celeriac and quinoa

Yes, you read that correctly. I’m mixing quinoa and mashed celeriac together. After the success of serving quinoa and mashed pumpkin separately last weekend, I thought, why not see how quinoa tastes and feels in a starchy mash.

Do you like my drawing?

Sous vide duck breast cartoon #cartoon #duck #sousvide
Sous vide duck breast cartoon

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Goong hee fatchoi Happy Chinese new year

It’s a Thursday night in Canberra and it’s the (Lunar) Chinese New Year.

Even though I’m Chinese I have no idea about the traditional aspects of how this is celebrated. I just know it’s a good time to eat, there are lots of lanterns on display, dragons may appear and did I say it’s a good time to eat?

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Bron, Li Peng, Peter and I, went to celebrate the Lunar Chinese New Year at the Lanterne Rooms in Campbell. The Lanterne Rooms are part of the Chairman group of restaurants in Canberra and it was doing a special dinner menu to ring in the new year.

I booked a table via http://dimmi.com.au for 6.30 pm. It’s a very dark restaurant and my mind went to poor available light for food photography (as it does). I arrived a few minutes early and the wait staff were very friendly and helpful. While I was sitting three of them approached me to ensure I was okay and to find out if I wanted a drink. I was asked about food allergies and any special requirements.

Lanterne Rooms on Urbanspoon

With the arrival of Bron, Li Peng and Peter we agreed on the special set menu and waited to be served delicious yummy Chinese food with a twist of which the Chairman group of restaurants is known for.

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The first dish was longevity noodles with cured trout, eshallots sauce and salmon roe. I LOVE salmon roe. Lovely salty balls of happiness that pop when you gently bite down on them.

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The second dish to come out is Tom Yum infused crispy prawns with rock melon and apple slaw. The prawns were cooked perfectly.

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The next dish is a duck roll with kaffir lime chilli dressing. The duck was yummy.

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Then we get three dishes with some rice. This part of the dinner consists of blue eye cod with pickled mustard leaf and ginger broth, shanghai rice cake with caramelised pork and scallions and to round off some warm roasted vegetables. The fish was nice and the rice cakes had a really intriguing texture.

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The final flourish included more rice and a dish of slow cooked blackmore wagyu, pork ribs with smoky black dates, jackfruit and pickled green chilli and some greens, i.e., sauteed sugar snap peas in XO sauce.

 

Every dish was good, some better than others. I really liked the noodles and trout, the prawns, duck rolls and pork ribs. Towards the end I forgot to shoot photographs of the dishes as they were arriving. Sorry about the messy photographs.

It was a pretty filling meal and I woke up feeling quite full 


It was a good meal with good company and a really nice environment to enjoy the Chinese new year.

Did you do anything to celebrate the Chinese new year?

The Artisan in Narrabundah

On Thursday night Miss19 and I went to dinner at The Artisan in Narrabundah.

Miss19 is in Canberra visiting friends. It was fantastic seeing her and getting an opportunity to enjoy a nice evening with her over a meal.

 
The Artisan on Urbanspoon
 

Miss19 had eaten a big lunch and she was happy with an entrée as a main while I went for an entrée, main and a side (we shared the side). 

The menu has a good diverse selection of dishes including some Australian fauna. It took us a while to choose what we wanted to eat. 

While we were contemplating the menu we were served an amuse-bouche of apple and goat cheese.

Amuse-bouche | Apple and goat cheese | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/20sec, ISO 250
Amuse-bouche | Apple and goat cheese | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/20sec, ISO 250

I asked for the Buckwheat crêpe with confit duck leg, sugar snaps, watercress, grapes and saba while Miss19 went for the Twice cooked potato and sorrel soufflé with champagne vinegar compressed pumpkin salad but as a main. 

Buckwheat crêpe with confit duck leg, sugar snaps, watercress, grapes and saba | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/10sec, ISO 100
Buckwheat crêpe with confit duck leg, sugar snaps, watercress, grapes and saba | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/10sec, ISO 100

I chose the Angus beef for a main.

Angus beef bavette | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/15sec, ISO 320
Angus beef bavette | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/15sec, ISO 320

We shared the pommes purée as a side.

Pommes purée with garlic chips | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/15sec, ISO 320
Pommes purée with garlic chips | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/15sec, ISO 320

For dessert we chose the tasting plate. I’m sorry the pavé is so out of focus. 

White chocolate and raspberry mousse with mulberry leaf ice cream and meringue | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/4sec, ISO 125
White chocolate and raspberry mousse with mulberry leaf ice cream and meringue | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/4sec, ISO 125

Very OUT OF FOCUS Bitter chocolate and orange pavé with burnt orange cloud and orange segments | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/4sec, ISO 125
Very OUT OF FOCUS Bitter chocolate and orange pavé with burnt orange cloud and orange segments | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/4sec, ISO 125

Violet crème brûlée with violet peach salad and rose rice crisps | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/4sec, ISO 125
Violet crème brûlée with violet peach salad and rose rice crisps | Apple iPhone 6 Plus with iPhone 6 Plus back camera 4.15mm f/2.2 at 4mm and f/2.2, 1/4sec, ISO 125

We enjoyed our meal. 

From my perspective the buckwheat crêpe was okay. It would have been nice to have it like a Chinese style duck pancake but the confit duck was really nice. The beef was very nicely cooked and very tender. 

The desserts were very interesting. Our favourite was the mousse which was quite salty. The saltiness contrasted nicely the sweetness of the chocolate. The pavé was good with a nice orange flavour. The violet crème brûlée was really interesting. The rose rice crisps tasted more like a rose water prawn cracker but in a really good way.

The only downside was that while we enjoyed sitting at a table in the front next to an open window at 8 pm a swarm of mosquitoes invaded and I needed antihistamines to get to sleep. 

Despite the mosquitoes, I’d happily eat at The Artisan again and again. The food is great and the service very friendly. I’m happy to recommend The Artisan to anyone living in or visiting Canberra. 

Have you been to The Artisan? What was your favourite dish?

 

The Artisan Restaurant Pty Ltd
16 Iluka Street
Narrabundah ACT 2604
02 6232 6482
Hours
Monday 6–10 pm
Tuesday–Saturday 12 noon–2.30 pm and 6–10 pm
Accessibility
The Artisan is wheelchair accessible throughout the restaurant, including to restrooms.
Gift vouchers
Gift vouchers are available for any amount and can be purchased from The Artisan during opening hours.
You can book using www.dimmi.com.au