Sous vide

Sous vide Sichuan kangaroo with Hokkien noodles

Dear Reader,

Greetings friends. It’s the beginning of a long weekend here in Australia (and New Zealand). Monday, 25 April 2022, is a public holiday and represents Anzac Day.

Kangaroos in a paddock near Lake Ginninderra

The weather in Canberra started dull and dreary; however, I saw a blue sky as I looked out of my balcony window.

I’ve been reading J. Kenji López-Alt’s new book on the wok, which has inspired me to cook more Asian style meals. To give this meal an Australian flavour, I went with Kangaroo.

Broccoli, Carrot, Chillies, Coriander, Coriander seeds, Daikon radish, Ginger, Red chillies, Shallots, Sichuan peppercorns, Sodium bicarbonate, Soy sauce, Spring onions, White peppercorns

Ingredients

  • Kangaroo steak. I picked up a packet of kangaroo steaks from the supermarket. I don’t know what cut of the kangaroo this meat is.
  • Monosodium glutamate
  • Sodium bicarbonate
  • Hokkien noodles
  • Sichuan peppercorns
  • White peppercorns
  • Black peppercorns
  • Coriander seeds
  • Coriander seeds
  • Chilli powder
  • Chillies
  • Coriander roots
  • Coriander stems
  • Coriander leaves
  • Broccolini
  • Shallots
  • Spring onions
  • Ginger
  • Garlic
  • Daikon radish
  • Carrot
  • Peanut oil
  • Sesame oil
  • Dry sherry
  • Soy sauce
  • Corn flour

Instructions

  1. On arriving home from the supermarket, season the kangaroo steaks with MSG and freshly cracked black pepper.
  2. Vacuum seal the meat in bags and refrigerate for a few hours.
  3. Prepare the Sichuan peppercorns by removing the black seeds and discarding them. Set the husks aside. For any whole peppercorns, crush them with your fingers and peel off the husk for use in the meal. Throw the black seeds away. This step reduces the unpleasant texture some people report when they purchase Sichuan peppercorns and add them from the container into a meal. Taking the time to do this and making an effort pays off.
  4. Cook the meat at 57 °C for 100 minutes.
  5. Once cooked, remove some of the meat and set it aside. Place the rest of the kangaroo into an airtight container and refrigerate or freeze for future use.
  6. Cut the meat into thin strips and dry with absorbent kitchen paper.
  7. With a pestle and mortar pound the peppercorns and coriander seeds. Pound them hard. Pound them until it hurts and you have a fine powder of spice.
  8. Place the meat strips into a bowl and add the ground peppercorns, ground coriander seeds, and sodium bicarbonate.
  9. Vigorously massage the meat with your fingers to coat the meat with the dry ingredients. You want to be quite physical with the meat and not delicate or gentle. The aim is to give the meat a good working over to ensure flavour and tenderness.
  10. Place diced shallots, sliced spring onions (the white bit), minced fresh ginger, and minced fresh garlic into a container.
  11. Slice the green part of the spring onions and put them into some iced water, and set them aside.
  12. Julienne some carrot and daikon radish and place onto a plate.
  13. Slice the stalks and heads of some broccoli and place them on the plate with the carrot and daikon radish.
  14. Make a slurry with water, cornflour, and soy sauce and whisk with chopsticks (like an Asian).
  15. Place the Hokkien noodles into a bowl and add boiling water. Soak the noodles for about 5 minutes. Separate the noodles with tongs and drain them with a colander or sieve.
  16. Heat your wok and add some peanut oil and sesame oil.
  17. Stir through the shallots, spring onion white bits, garlic, and minced ginger.
  18. Cook these aromatic ingredients, so they become fragrant.
  19. Move the aromatic ingredients to a dish.
  20. Add a little more oil and stir fry the carrot, radish, and broccoli until these vegetables soften. Avoid overcooking. The aim is to have some bite in the vegetables; you don’t want them soggy or limp. You want them firm with a bit of stiffness.
  21. Add some MSG and swirl some soy sauce around the sides of the wok and keep tossing the wok.
  22. Place the stir-fried vegetables into a dish.
  23. Add a bit of peanut oil and then stir-fry the meat strips.
  24. Get some colour onto the meat.
  25. Pour in some dry sherry, and add the aromatic ingredients and the vegetables.
  26. Toss in the Sichuan peppercorn husks and give everything in the wok a good stir.
  27. Thicken your juices with the slurry of cornflour and soy sauce.
  28. Place the noodles into a bowl and transfer the contents of then wok atop the noodles.
  29. Thank the Lord.
  30. Eat with chopsticks and a spoon.

How was the meal?

I’ve eaten sous vide kangaroo before. I enjoyed it then and tonight’s meal was good too.

The Sichuan peppercorn husks and the ground pepper gave me a fizz in my mouth. I’m guessing that adding the MSG also helped enhance the flavours.

I made enough for two, so I’ve set aside half for tomorrow’s lunch, which I’ll enjoy after church.

Finals thoughts

  • Have you tried kangaroo meat? What did you think?
  • The last time I shared my kangaroo meat dinner on Twitter, some Tweeps protested and shared with their Tweeps that I was not respecting native Australian fauna. I’m not saying that what I do is correct or the best way to live. It’s how I live, and I respect that not everyone agrees.
  • How do you feel about incorporating non-traditional ingredients into Asian style dishes? Macropods, i.e., kangaroos and wallabies, are not native to East Asia. Still, in my defence, Chinese people have traditionally been adventurous when eating things. Look at some of the interesting meat Chinese like to eat.
  • Have you cooked with Sichuan pepper? Do you like the fizz it creates in your mouth and on your tongue and lips?

Coles Tomahawk Steak and cabbage

Dear Reader,

When I read “tomahawk”, I think of a small axe! This steak was more like a small hatchet.

I saw this in the supermarket yesterday while grocery shopping and my eyes shone like dinner plates.

Two weeks ago, when I went out for the chicken parmigiana dinner with workmates, I saw the Fenway Public House tomahawk steak on the menu. My friend, MG, said her husband loves a tomahawk steak. My reply was that we should all return for a meal and enjoy a steak.

Sous vide tomahawk steak

When I saw this steak in the meat display cabinet, I immediately thought to cook it at a low temperature in the oven. I’d follow this by searing it in a castiron skillet. To prepare for this approach, I dry brined the meat with monosodium glutamate, also known as MSG, and King of Flavour!

Monosodium glutamate (MSG)

The more I thought about the meal; I concluded I would cook it “under vacuum” (sous vide).

Ingredients

  • Steak
  • MSG
  • Cabbage
  • Sesame oil
  • Shallots
  • Red chillies
  • Carrot
  • Parsley
  • Instant gravy

Instructions

  1. Think ahead and give yourself a day to prepare so you can dry brine the meat.
  2. Place the steak on a rack over a baking tray.
  3. Season the steak with MSG.
  4. Place the steak on the rack and then into the refrigerator and leave uncovered overnight.
  5. When you want to cook the steak, place the meat into a vacuum bag and seal it.
  6. Cook the meat in a water bath at 54 °C (129 °F) for two hours. This temperature should produce a medium-rare result.
  7. Remove the meat from the bag and pat it dry with kitchen paper.
  8. Sear the surfaces of the steak in a hot castiron skillet basting it in some butter.
  9. Allow the steak to rest for between 5 and 10 minutes.
  10. Make the instant gravy as per the maker’s instructions.
  11. Make the cabbage side dish with sliced cabbage, julienned carrot, sesame oil, shallots, and parsley.
  12. Put all the vegetables in a microwave cooking container and add some vegetable oil, MSG, and pepper. Heat with microwave radiation until it’s cooked and the cabbage still has some crunch.
  13. Carve the flesh from the rib bone, and with a sharp knife, follow the muscle bundle fascia to prise apart the principal muscle bundles.
  14. Keep the eye fillet aside for meals later in the week.
  15. Slice the fat cap meat.
  16. Place the bone plus the fat cap meat on a dinner plate alongside the cabbage side dish.
  17. Spoon over some gravy.
  18. Give thanks to the Lord.
  19. Eat with a steak knife and fork unless, like me, you live alone and eat with fingers in a primal fashion.
  20. The best part may be gnawing the meat from the rib bone.

Monosodium glutamate

Monosodium glutamate (MSG)

Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ)

You can find the FSANZ technical report on their website. MSG=monosodium glutamate; CRS=Chinese restaurant syndrome. I recognise and acknowledge there are many people who prefer to avoid MSG and I’d never suggest they should try it or that they don’t have a legitimate reason not to use it or consume it.

I’ve had a few people ask me about MSG and my opinion so I thought it best to refer to a published report in which I have no concerns.

A friendly Tweep who has asked about MSG

The report concludes:

“There is no convincing evidence that MSG is a significant factor in causing systemic reactions resulting in severe illness or mortality. The studies conducted to date on CRS have largely failed to demonstrate a causal association with MSG. Symptoms resembling those of CRS may be provoked in a clinical setting in small numbers of individuals by the administration of large doses of MSG without food. However, such affects are neither persistent nor serious and are likely to be attenuated when MSG is consumed with food. In terms of more serious adverse effects such as the triggering of bronchospasm in asthmatic individuals, the evidence does not indicate that MSG is a significant trigger factor.

Final thoughts

  • Do you like gnawing meat from the bone?
  • Do your eyes shine like dinner plates when you see something you lust after in the supermarket meat display cabinet?
  • What would you do with the leftover fillet meat?
  • What are your thoughts on MSG?

Sous vide lamb backstrap

Hello dear reader

How are you this week? I had a fabulous week. Spiritually, personally, and professionally, it’s been a great week.

It’s been a weird week weather-wise in Canberra. Some days have been warmer than expected, and other days it’s been windy and cold. My gut is telling me we’re really into the autumn run and temperatures and humidity are about to plummet.

Sous vide lamb backstrap with pomegranate, mint, and coriander pumpkin mash plus curry roast cauliflower

Ingredients

  • Lamb backstrap (eye of the tenderloin)
  • Salt
  • White pepper
  • Ground cinnamon
  • Ground cardamom
  • Ground rosemary leaves
  • Ground nutmeg
  • Ground coriander seeds
  • Fresh coriander leaves
  • Fresh mint leaves
  • Frozen pomegranate arils
  • Kent pumpkin
  • Sour cream
  • Vegetable oil
  • Olive oil
  • Cauliflower
  • Curry powder

Instructions

  1. Go to the supermarket or butcher and buy a piece of lambstrap.
  2. When you get home dry the surface of the meat with absorbent kitchen paper.
  3. In a small bowl or ramekin make a spice mix with the salt, pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, rosemary leaves, nutmeg, and coriander seeds. I mix with chopsticks because I’m Asian. 😉
  4. Pour the spice mix onto a small tray and then season the meat by pressing the meat into the spice mix and cover the entire surface.
  5. Place the seasoned meat into a vacuum bag and vacuum slea the bag.
  6. Store the meat in the refrigerator for a few hours. Overnight storage would be better, but it’s not essential.
  7. When it’s time to cook, turn the oven on to 180 °C (fan forced).
  8. With a Chinese cleaver cut the pumpkin into chunks about the size of a squash ball or perhaps a little smaller.
  9. With a paring knife, trim the stalk of the cauliflower but don’t remove it. The stalk is good. There’s nothing wrong with a firm stalk, it’ll be fresh and good to eat. If the stalk is limp then it’s probably not very good and no amount of paring will help.
  10. Pour a little vegetable oil into the palm of your hand and rub your hands together and then rub each piece of pumpkin. Place the pumpkin onto a baking sheet.
  11. Pour some oil over the cauliflower. You’ll need more oil because of all the added surface area on the cauliflower. Rubbing it on with your hands will help but don’t be stingy with the oil.
  12. Sprinkle a generous amount of curry powder over the cauliflower and rub it on the cauliflower to smooth out any oily lumpy bits.
  13. Put the cauliflower on the baking tray next to the pumpkin chunks.
  14. Cook the vegetables until you can penetrate the pumpkin with the tip of a sharp paring knife and it slides in and out without any resistance. It should feel tight and not loose. Loose and sloppy means you’ve gone too far.
  15. Heat the water bath to 55 °C (131 °F) and cook the lamb for 40 minutes.
  16. Remove the lamb when it’s finished cooking.
  17. Remove the meat from the vacuum bag and dry the surface with absorbent kitchen paper.
  18. Heat a cast iron skillet and wipe the hot surface with some rice bran oil and sear the lamb.
  19. Let the meat rest while attending to the vegetables.
  20. Place the hot pumpkin into a bowl and mash them roughly with a fork.
  21. Mix through some sour cream to make the mash a little more creamy.
  22. Slice the meat to the thickness you desire.
  23. Smear the mash over the dinner plate and place the slices of lamb on one side of the mash. On the other side, garnish the mash with some roughly torn mint leaves and coriander leaves. Add some pomegranate arils which will add a lovely sweetness to the mash. I think pomegranate arils also add an amazing visual appeal. It’s almost sensual. I wish I had got some dried flower petals to add but I didn’t want to drive to Kingston to buy some.
  24. Place the roast cauliflower on the plate.
  25. I would use a decent steak knife with this meal rather than a standard dinner knife.
  26. Give thanks to the Lord.
  27. Enjoy the meal.

How was the meal?

This dish was inspired by my girlfriend. She loves pomegranate and last weekend we enjoyed a slow-roasted lamb rump served with a pomegranate and mint salad. That dish was superior to what I cooked tonight. The slow-roasting process produces firmer yet still tender flesh. It also had more flavour through the meat itself.

The seasoning I used was distinctive and I could taste it with each mouthful but I think I prefer last weekend’s rump over the backstrap.

All that said, this was still pretty good and I’ve sequestered half of it to the refrigerator for another meal.

Final thoughts

  • Do you like pemegranate arils in a dish?
  • How thick do you like to slice your meat?
  • How was your week?

Sous vide eye fillet and duxelles wrapped in puff pastry—Beef Wellington

Dear Reader,

How has your week been? I’ve had a fabulous one. Work has been busy with some unexpected challenges. Such challenges, however; accentuate the amazing skills and nature of the marvellous group of people I have the honour of working with.

Personally, life has been pretty good too. Feeling joy and happiness is wonderful.

Angas Park Australian Pitted Prunes. Great for constipation 😉

Ingredients

  • Eye fillet steak (beef)
  • Dijon mustard
  • Brown mushrooms (chopped)
  • White onion (chopped)
  • Parsley (chopped)
  • Sage (chopped)
  • Pitted prunes (chopped)
  • Pâté
  • Puff pastry (store bought)
  • Instant gravy
  • Broccolini

Instructions

  1. Truss a piece of eye fillet steak with butcher’s twine.
  2. Season the beef liberally with salt.
  3. Put the meat into a plastic vacuum bag and seal it.
  4. Refrigerate the meat for a few hours and let the salt penetrate the meat.
  5. Cook the beef in a water bath at 54 °C for about 2 hours.
  6. Refrigerate the meat in the bag overnight (this isn’t necessary but I cooked the meat on Saturday and cooked this meal today [Sunday]).
  7. Remove the meat from the bag and dry the surface of the steak with kitchen paper and snip the butcher’s twine and remove the string.
  8. Rub some Dijon mustard over the beef.
  9. Sauté the onions in a little rice bran oil or vegetable oil.
  10. Once the onions have become translucent, add the mushrooms and sauté until the schroom juices exude freely.
  11. Once the bulk of the water has become vapour, add in the prunes, sage, and parsley. Mix everything well and turn off the heat.
  12. Transfer the duxelles to the bowl to cool down. Have some absorbent paper in the bottom of the bowl to tamponade any free juices. I don’t want the duxelles bone dry, I want it to start off moist and once it gets hot again, it’ll get wet.
  13. One a sheet of puff pastry trowel a thin layer of pâté and then a thin layer of the duxelles.
  14. Place the meat on this and trowel some more pâté on the beef plus a layer of duxelles.
  15. Brush some melted butter on the exposed surface of the puff pastry.
  16. Add a sheet of puff pastry on top and press around the edges so the two sheets bind.
  17. Cut away the excess pastry with a blade and if you feel up to it, use the excess pastry to make some weird looking shapes to add on top of the pastry casing.
  18. Brush the pastry with some beaten egg and add a little flaky salt.
  19. Place the meat and pastry creation into a moderate oven and cook until the pastry is a golden brown.
  20. While the Beef Wellington is cooking, steam some broccolini and make the instant gravy.
  21. When the pastry looks good, remove the Beef Wellington from the oven and allow it to rest for about ten minutes.
  22. Slice the Beef Wellington in half and place one half on a dinner plate. Keep the other half in the refrigerator for a meal the next day.
  23. Put the broccolini on the plate next to the meat and then spoon over some gravy.
  24. Give thanks to the Lord for the meal and tuck in.

Spoilers | Have you watched any good movies lately? | Spoilers

Last night a friend and I watched Pig. It stars Nicolas Cage and a pig. It was released in 2021 we really enjoyed it.

The pig is a truffle pig, and Nicolas Cage plays a former chef with a dark personality.

When I say the movie stars the pig, it’s not like the movie, Babe. The pig is only seen in the first few minutes of the movie, but the pig forms a large part of the movie without being seen.

Final Thoughts

  • Do you like Beef Wellington?
  • How was your week?
  • Have you seen Pig?

Sous vide ribeye steak with pumpkin and kale salad.

Dear Reader,

I hope you’re doing well tonight. 

This week, there have been warnings that meat, fresh fruit, and vegetables will be in short supply because of supply chain problems. 

I stocked up on some beef to hopefully get me through the next couple of weeks. I saw a piece of steak that caught my eye and decided I’d have it with a pumpkin salad.

As an example of the shortages, I’d generally make a pumpkin salad with rocket (arugula for friends east of the North Pacific Ocean. I couldn’t get any, nor spinach, for my breakfast 😱 so I went with kale!

I hope wherever you live; the situation isn’t drastic. The spread of COVID-19 caused by the SARS-COV-2 Omicron Variant has rapidly swept through some areas. There are personnel shortages in critical areas with public health measures requiring isolation and quarantine for the infected and contacts.

I now know people, friends in fact, who have COVID-19. To keep my mind off this, I’ve been grateful for the fellowship of those close to me. I’ll always be thankful to those who I love for keeping me in good spirits.

Sous vide ribeye fillet steak with roast pumpkin salad and mushroom and green pepeprcorn sauce.

Ingredients

  • Ribeye steak
  • Mushrooms
  • Green peppercorns
  • Iodised salt
  • Black peppercorns
  • Kent pumpkin
  • Marmalade (homemade by my friend Claire)
  • Rice bran oil
  • Kale
  • Walnuts
  • Red onion
  • Butter
  • Plain flour
  • Beef stock
  • Sherry

Instructions

  1. Carefully handle your meat. I’ve never liked seeing people on cooking shows slapping their meat around. Meat is delicate and precious. Handle it with care.
  2. Unwrap the steak and dry the surface with kitchen paper (noting it too seems to be the new toilet paper concerning scarcity in shops).
  3. Season your meat with some iodised salt and freshly ground black peppercorns.
  4. Place the steak on a rack and refrigerate overnight. This process is called dry brining.
  5. Before cooking, slice some mushrooms and place the steak, mushrooms, and green peppercorns into a vacuum bag.
  6. Seal the bag and put it into a water bath set at 54 °C for 2 hours and 10 minutes.
  7. At the end of the cooking time, remove the bag and open it. Remove the steak, mushrooms, and peppercorns. Dry the surface of the steak and in a bowl, add the mushrooms, peppercorns, and meat juices. Those juices are precious. Savour them like any juices formed with loving-kindness. 
  8. Heat a cast-iron skillet and sear steak until it forms a crust knowing this will taste amazing and add texture to the mouthfeel.
  9. Allow your meat to rest after so much fun and excitement. It will taste better for it.
  10. Make a roux with the flour and butter by gently melting the butter in a saucier pan and adding the flour. Whisk the flour and butter for three minutes to remove the taste of the flour.
  11. Slowly add the beef stock and some sherry to form a sauce.
  12. Add your meat’s juices, cooked mushrooms, and green peppercorns and finish the sauce with a bit of butter.
  13. Cut some kent pumpkin into bite-sized pieces, and with your hands, massage in some oil and then some marmalade.
  14. Gently cook in an oven set to low to moderate heat.
  15. Properly cooked pumpkin is when you can penetrate it with a smooth probe. You can move it in and out, and when you withdraw, the shaft is clean. 
  16. Remove the pumpkin and allow it cool.
  17. It’s worth cleaning the kale. I think we should all clean our veggies. While fomite transmission is not efficient for COVID-19, you never know when a wad of snot full of SARS-COV-2 might have landed on your otherwise healthy kale.
  18. Crush your nuts with something heavy. I use a stainless steel coffee tamper.
  19. I make the salad with pumpkin, kale, walnuts, sliced red onion, salt, and oil.
  20. With your fingers, pick up the steak and find the muscle plane between the deskle meat and the lean fillet. The steak will be tender enough so you can use the tip of your index finger and gently prise apart the muscle bundles and separate them. The meat is warm and moist and slippery and the bundles separate easily with a little gentle pressure.
  21. Keep the deckle meat for dinner and put the lean fillet into a container and refrigerate it.
  22. Take a sharp knife and slice the deckle meat with long slow strokes when your meat has rested. I like to draw my knife towards me, so my blade glides through my meat.
  23. Put the salad in a shallow bowl, stack some steak slices on the side, and then spoon some of the sauce on the sliced meat.
  24. This meat was moist, tender, and pungent in the aroma. I just wanted to dive in and get my lips and tongue into it and savour it slowly.

Final thoughts

  1. How has your week been?
  2. Are there supply problems for you at the moment?
  3. Are you worried about being infected with SARS-COV-2 Omicron Variant.

How about some non-food photos!

I went for a walk this afternoon.